Made of the mist: Niagara Falls

24 hours in America's first state park

Photo by Mark X. on Unsplash

It seriously reeked, but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. I was at Cave of the Winds in Niagara Falls State Park, New York, and it was the season of nestlings-gull nestlings that is, the most adorable baby chicks just steps away, sometimes inches away, from the walking paths leading to the closest a person can ever come to the U.S. side of the famous falls. But the bird droppings were nasty smelling, to be certain, and there were thousands of birds, so I think you can understand where I’m coming from with this. Never mind; I braved the stench and enjoyed the view. The birds were a delight to watch; parents moving eggshells from the nests, little fuzzy speckled gray balls of chicks clustered together, making a racket with hopes food was nigh.

Past the nestlings, water pounded the cliffs, cascading with incredible force. What I was looking at was Bridal Veil Falls, one of the three waterfalls under the collective name, Niagara.

Each visitor is given a rain poncho and sandals to wear for the wet part of the attraction—thank goodness! As I climbed the steps to become engulfed in the falling water, I understood why the viewing platform was called “Hurricane Deck.” What a phenomenal experience! I could have stayed on that deck for hours, feeling the pressure of the water against my back, but it was also cold that day, and my glasses were covered with spray. I reluctantly moved along to clear my specs and view from a less-wet area.

Later that day, I took a ride on the Maid of the Mist, a boat on the U.S. side that brings viewers as close as they can bet to the falls from the water. Ponchos are handed out here as well, for good reason. From the largest to the smallest of the cascading sights, you will be up close and personal with Horseshoe Falls (on the Canadian side), the American Falls (on the American side, separated by Goat Island), and lastly, you will be able to see Bridal Veil Falls (American side, separated by Luna island) from a different perspective. As the boat moves closer and ever closer, the sound of the captain’s narration about the surrounding area is obliterated-all you will hear is the tremendous force of water, spilling and cascading-and you will get very wet from the spray. It’s fantastic. And, because it was late spring when I visited, I was able to experience peak flow: as much as 750,000 gallons of water per second.

The park

Niagara Falls State Park is the oldest in the U.S., established in 1885 after a small band of environmentalists recognized that the growing number of mills and factories along the river were choking the falls. It’s hard to believe, truly, that people were fighting for and recognizing the problematic nature of the Industrial Revolution even then, in the mid-1800s. Hats off to those intrepid crusaders (who founded the “Free Niagara” conservation movement) and urged the Niagara Appropriations Bill to be signed into law. From the establishment of the park came a network of hiking and walking paths throughout 400 acres of wooded areas leading to the falls, the roiling Niagara River, and subsequent fascinations such as a discovery center, visitor center, and the Aquarium of Niagara. It’s easy to spend a full day in the park and even better knowing that there are shuttles available for a nominal fee—the vintage-style Niagara Scenic Trolley—to take you from one end of the park to the other, should you need assistance.

Downtime

While there are plenty of hotel properties in the town of Niagara Falls, stay at The Giacomo. For one, it’s gorgeous with sumptuous linens and pillowtop beds; for another, it’s conveniently located, within walking distance of the park, and it doesn’t smell like an ashtray (as many of the other nearby properties do). Quiet, beautiful, and with a terrific buffet breakfast, it also has a cozy lounge that opens at 5:00 p.m. with signature cocktails (try the “Over the Falls”) as well as nightly entertainment. While I was there, a fellow on acoustic guitar entertained with original compositions, as well as some tasteful covers.

I suppose it’s one thing if you are visiting the city for gambling, the jangling noise of slow machines, and bright fluorescent lights—but I’d go with quiet, luxurious, and winner of the 2013 certificate of excellence from TripAdvisor any time. And you can’t miss the building: The Giacomo is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, as it was originally built in 1929 as the United Office Building. It’s art deco roots are gloriously featured throughout the hotel.

Dining

The town is on the move upward after a difficult stint during the recession. Leading the charge for phenomenal eats is the Niagara Falls Culinary Institute, which opened in 2012 in part of the former Rainbow Centre Mall. It isn’t just instructional space—oh, no, it also has a student-operated restaurant (Savor), a pastry shop (La Patisserie), a deli (Old Falls Street Deli), and a bit of retail, including The Wine Boutique, featuring wines from the Niagara Wine Trail. I picked up a soup of the day from Old Falls Street Deli as well as a couple of sandwiches accompanied by crunchy house made potato chips, and all was delicious. Dessert was acquired from La Patisserie; a variety of cookies and bars for the long road home. [Ed. note: Old Falls Street Deli and The Wine Boutique have since closed.]

If you have time, go to Wine on Third as well, within walking distance of The Giacomo. Enjoy a meal of grilled beef tips, goat cheese, and shrimp risotto, and a crunchy blue cheese salad with bacon and tomato. Delicious! Also, despite the name, Wine on Third has a full bar. I had a traditional perfect Manhattan (it is New York state after all!) and was pleased with the bartender’s prowess.

And then, alas, it was time to move on, though I wish I had scheduled in a few more days. The falls are mesmerizing and birding abounds on the river and islands. Niagara Falls beckons. I’ll have to return soon.


By Kathleen Stoehr. The article first appeared in our October 2013 issue of Minnesota Good Age. More information about Niagara Falls State Park, visit www.niagarafallsstatepark.com.